Ignition Switch Replacment

SYMPTOMS: One day the lights wouldn't work. The running lights did, but no headlights. I first assumed a bad relay. Then later that evening I noticed that the fan/blower didn't work either! I then confirmed the radio did work which on a Westy is separate from the ignition switch. So obviously it was a global concern and power was not getting to that system group (thus not a relay or fuse).

A few recommended the ignition control unit that is between the ignition and the fuse block often fails while others recommend the ignition switch as the culprit. Since my 1993 Vw Eurovan GL has a "odd" ignition switch I figured I would investigate that idea first, plus it's cheaper! I determined that if I found a "sweet" spot by shaking the key I could get the headlights and fan/blower to engage. There was the issue...the ignition switch! When I bought the van I only had one key in the ignition. I soon added the key to my assortment that  weigh about 1lbs and thus pulled on the ignition in a way that found the dead spot in the tumbler.

PROCEDURE: 11.26.05 45 minutes
Had our older digital camera for this procedure, so sorry the photos are not the best. At any time you can click on the thumb nail and get a larger view of the image.

Unscrew the two retaining screws for the bottom steering column cover and remove it. Remove the top cover and make sure you pull it through the windshield wiper stalk. I can tell you the tabs broken on pull the top from the bottom cover off on mine. You may want to take more caution then me. If they are broken the assembly doesn't have a "snug" fit post procedure  regardless of how tight the screws are installed.
Pop the cover off of the center of the steering wheel unplugging the horn wires. This came off easily with little chance of breaking any plastic stuff.
Undo the nut holding the steering wheel on. It's a 24mm and I used a deep well socket. Start the van and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. With a small breaker bar it didn't take much to get the nut off, but it required the wheel to be turned to lock. I used a small rubber mallet to whap the short breaker bar to break the nut. Photo shows area with nut and cover removed.
The steering wheel needs pulled off. I didn't need a wheel puller at all. I think a few whaps from my rubber mallet may have helped! Photo shows the area with the wheel removed.
Unplug the harnesses from the back of the assembly. There is a total of 4 separate wire groups.
Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position. I don't know why this is required to unlock what is going on inside, but Ken from www.vanagain.com recommended it in his write-up and that is good enough for me!
Take off the single allen bolt that holds the ignition switch housing to the column on the left side. It was a 6mm.
Remove the three screws holding the blinker assembly to the ignition housing. It lifts easily right off.
Now it's time to pull the ignition housing off the column. There is a plastic sleeve that needs to come off with the assembly first. I first though I needed a puller (which I don't have) but here is how I did it. Since the ignition switch is bad I didn't mind whacking it with my rubber mallet a couple of times to push the assembly 3-4mm up. Push the ignition housing back down and you will now see the gap between the housing and the plastic sleeve. I then used two flat screwdrivers to pry up the sleeve. Some type of puller would have worked just fine too!
One the black plastic sleeve is removed the ignition housing lifted right off the column.
The plastic white ignition switch can now easily been seen by looking at the back of the ignition housing. There is one small philips screw to be removed and the ignition switch will fall right out!
Here is the switch a bit mangled from whacking it from the back with my rubber mallet. There is nothing serviceable nor looks broken from inspection. I'm sure a dremel would let me know what is going on inside, but at $8-10 for a replacement it's not worth fixing or cleaning IMHO.
Reinstallation is just an opposite of removal. Most info I found forgot to mention these helpful items when reinstalling the black plastic sleeve and ignition housing.
INSTALLATION HINT: Put the ignition housing back on after installing the new switch. Don't tighten up the 6mm allen bolt yet. Put the black plastic sleeve back on the column and use the 24mm deep socket to lightly tap it back on but first...
INSTALLATION HINT:  The only issue is you will be surprised the whole steering column will push down toward the floor when you do this! You will see that the assembly above the brake pedals will separate it. No major problem you will just need to make sure that the shafts go back into the rubber bushings. I used my feet to push up on this assembly while I tapped with my mallet on the top of the 24mm socket.
When you put the nut back on and tighten it will pull the column assembly up to the proper location and there is no additional adjustments needed. Tighten the nut to 50Nm per Bentley.
Hook up your 4 wire harness connectors and check your turn signals, windshield wipers and ignition before reassembling everything! Once you have hooked up the ignition connector tighten the 6mm allen bolt holding the ignition housing to the steering column.
Here is an image of the Bentley page to see what is going on in the ignition switch area.